I have had my battles at Burnham & Berrow, but nothing compared to the one envisaged during the Second World War.
This was the second line of defence had Britain succumbed to a German invasion. The greenkeeping team’s recent clearance of acres of blackthorn at the side of the 7th hole has revealed three pillboxes.
It transpires they were part of the 50-mile Taunton line where the Home Guard would try to hold off advancing forces should they land in the southwest.
They add another chapter to Burnham & Berrow’s marvellous history.
It was home to Great Britain’s Ryder Cup player Ernest Whitcombe and his brothers Charles and Reginald, also noteworthy golfers. And it was visited in 1930 by Don Bradman and the Australian cricket team who would play in the infamous Bodyline series two years later.
Then there is the ancient church, which used to be so close to the course that the 12th hole could not be played on Sundays or during funerals.
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Burnham & Berrow’s dunes are dramatic; the greens undulate wildly, and there is seldom a flat lie anywhere.
Meanwhile, the views are gorgeous, and there is a good chance of spotting wildlife (it is the only course on which I have encountered a snake!). It is a great pleasure despite being one of the most challenging courses in the UK.
This was my third time playing it, and I hadn’t reached 30 points during any round. Although my excuse this time was a sprained toe that required me to hire a buggy.
I doubt my injury made much difference on the 1st hole because it is a demon – weaving through grassy mounds and inside a deep bunker before reaching a fiendish, layered green.
Historically, punchbowl putting surfaces were omnipresent at Burnham & Berrow, but over the years, they have disappeared, replaced by more varied greens. However, the 3rd had remained, hidden behind a sandy dune at the end of a dogleg par 4. It’s a super hole.
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The 4th is where I spotted a sleeping adder in the rough. It is a fun par 5 with a long carry from the tee before a turn towards a risen green. Even on one foot, I managed to have a birdie putt – obviously, I missed.
Fearsome sand traps are dotted all around the cracking par 3 5th that has a vast green that slips from back to front. The clearance work on the 7th has improved the vistas out to sea from the hole, distracting from the menacing pond down the right.
The work has also uncovered a raised 8th tee, which will improve the angle to the par 5, which was part-designed by Harry Colt‘s partner Charles Hugh Allison following an original work by Herbert Fowler.
Colt and Alister MacKenzie also had a hand in Burnham & Berrow’s design, explaining the variety of holes.
None is more quirky than the 10th – a short par 4 where much depends on the blind tee shot. A miss down the right will undoubtedly prevent par and probably result in a lost ball.
The final stretch comprises the most memorable stretch in my eyes. The 12th, recently updated by Martin Ebert, is a sublime par 4 that snakes uphill to green, falls off to the right, and is framed by a knotty bush.
Slopes and run-offs are a key feature, and become more pronounced as the round progresses The ball can often disappear over the back of the 13th – a par 5 which turns, rises, falls and rises again into a heavily sloping green.
Meanwhile, on the tough par 3 14th, I was ten feet below the green with my second shot after missing the target to the left. Fortunately, I was able to pop the ball to 12 feet.
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My favourite hole is the 15th – a par 4 into one of the course’s original bowl greens, hidden behind a grassy bank. Moving the ball in from the right could reap reward.
The cold wind was blowing against us as we took on the 17th – at nearly 200 yards, arguably the most difficult of the par 3s. A giant bunker guards the left entrance to the green, and two other deep traps on the right. The finale is a classic – a long bending par 4 in front of the clubhouse. A definite sting in the tail.
It completes a round at one of England’s premium courses but one of the least stuffy. This may be an Open Qualifying venue, but everyone feels welcome and is always left with a sense of “must come back.”
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About Neil White:
Neil White is a panellist for the NCG Top 100s course rankings. He also has his own podcast, The Golf Pilgrim.
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