It is easy – and I stand guilty as charged – to hurtle towards either the Down or Antrim Coast immediately on setting foot on Northern Irish soil. After all, Royal County Down and Royal Portrush are pretty much universally regarded as the best two course on the whole island of Ireland, let alone just in Northern Ireland.
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As the Open heads back to the latter, it is fair to assume that golf fans in their hundreds of thousands will be making a beeline to the spectacular northern coastline of Giants Causeway and the Dunluce Links – me included. But, as the great Walter Hegan says, we should always make time to stand back and smell the flowers, and that was a message that I heard loud and clear on my most recent visit.
I love arriving in Ireland – or indeed anywhere – by ferry, especially when on a golf trip. It just makes the logistics that much easier to know that you can stash an additional pair of shoes and all the golfing paraphernalia that can be required when playing several rounds in an array of conditions.
On this occasion, it was from Stranraer (Cairnryan to be precise) to Belfast Port and my first move on arrival was to swing not right and head north but left towards the handsome city.
Ten Square Hotel, in central Belfast, offers a chic and contemporary boutique experience in the heart of the city, just steps from City Hall. Housed in an elegant former linen warehouse, the hotel blends historic character with sleek design – rich velvets, dark woods and bold accents.
Many of its well appointed rooms offer city centre views. Onsite dining includes the intimate Josper’s Grill and the lively seventh floor Loft Bar, where you can enjoy a cocktail while gazing across town.
It’s a stylish and convenient choice for travellers seeking modern comfort in a central Belfast setting.
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My next stop was Portrush itself, little more than an hour away to the north, much of it on the motorway.
Frankly, enough is being written about the golf course, as good as it is, so I will limit my comments here to the town itself, which for some reason can go under the radar. It’s a lovely seaside town, perfectly suited to golf trips. You are never far away from the bars and restaurants and there are several great places to eat.
Aided by gravity, I invariably end up by the water in the harbour, where the eponymous pub is pretty much my ideal watering hole. The stout is exceptional, the bonhomie tangible and the music lively.
Next door is surely the best place to eat too – a multi-storey restaurant – really – with an array of dining options that always hit the spot.
I stayed in the Elephant Rock Hotel, just a few hundred yards away from the harbour and within walking distance of Royal Portrush. This stylish boutique hotel offers Atlantic-facing views from the best rooms, which feature Art Deco-inspired décor. It creates a vibe ideally suited to couples and small groups who are here for a good time. With a restaurant and two bars – including a lively cocktail lounge – there is always something happening here. The breakfast is excellent too. Add that to the bold design and prime location.
Suitably fed, watered and rested, it was time to head back towards Belfast, but not before a detour to Larne, which is on the coast just to the north.
There I discovered Cairndhu, an audacious clifftop layout that was originally the work of the great John Morrison, who worked extensively with Harry Colt.
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This unusual and dramatic course is set above the high cliffs overlooking Ballygally Bay and the Irish Sea. Modest in length, it is not short in incident, especially on the holes that are nearest the sea.
The first hole climbs sharply upwards but the effort is entirely worthwhile from the moment you board the tee at the par-3 2nd hole, which is right at the end of the headland.
Then comes the tee shot at the 3rd into what appears to be oblivion. The first-time visitor must trust that the whole of Ireland is beyond the marker post – it just doesn’t feel like it.
The next few holes travel mainly downhill and gradually acquire more of a parkland feel.
On the back nine, there are lots of trees, several doglegs and never a shortage of intrigue.
Often the holes that appear most innocuous on the scorecard are the most dangerous when you play them.
Located back on the high ground is the clubhouse. With a pot of strong Irish tea, I surveyed the glorious scene across the course and to the shimmering sea beyond. What a great spot to call in for a game.
Little more than half an hour later and I was back at Belfast Port waiting to board the ferry back to Scotland.
What a great short break – I only wish I had longer to explore and enjoy the sights and the scenes. I will be back before long.
Fact box
Hotels: Ten Square Hotel; Elephant Rock Hotel (link to: www.elephantrockhotel.co.uk)
Golf: Cairndhu
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