Streamsong – where those hoary cliches about Florida golf go to die

Golf in Florida. We all know the score: sunshine, blue skies, palm trees, real estate lining the fairways, shallow bunkers, pristine fairways, cart paths, frequent opportunities for refreshment, and buggies. Above all else, buggies. You get the idea. And then there is Streamsong, which offers the first two of those broad-brush characteristics and precisely none of the others.

I can assure you that I have spent plenty of time playing golf around Orlando, Tampa and Miami and never seen anything remotely like this resort. In fact, I’m struggling to think of anywhere that is quite like Streamsong.

Let’s start with the facts: there are now three courses here, with the Black most recently added to the Red and the Blue that I saw, and they have been open for less than 10 years. The striking and unusual hotel a mile or so away from the golf has over 200 rooms as well as a spa and outdoor pool.

The Red and Blue courses were designed by arguably the finest contemporary practitioners: the partnership of Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw created the former while Tom Doak is responsible for the latter.

The site they were given to work with is an extraordinary one. Some two hours south-west of Orlando going towards Tampa and near nowhere in particular, it was formerly a phosphate mine which created a sandy topography that will resonate with anyone who has played golf on the west coast of Ireland.

The courses are intertwined and neither design team was given an advantage over the other. To an extent, they had to work together in the early stages but with such a site so rich and expansive, they were hardly likely to get in each other’s way.

“The site contains some of the most unusual, interesting and dramatic land forms we have ever encountered with towering dunes, sandy fields and pristine lakes,” said Coore and Crenshaw.

It would be inaccurate to say these courses have links tendencies but the minimalist style of design and often wide, sweeping approaches to the greens owe much to the old-fashioned approach to architecture.

It is not easy to say which is better: the Red is probably more eye-catching thanks to a greater reliance on water features – especially on the par 3s – and changes in elevation.

Doak’s nod to Old Tom Morris and his ilk comes in the form of tees that are simply an extension of the previous green. What a joy it is to finish one hole and immediately find yourself on the next one. The large, rolling greens of the Blue create an array of fascinating pin positions and some truly evil chips and putts when it turns out you have made Doak cross by approaching from the wrong side of the green.

While the Red’s bunkers are more irregularly shaped and the Blue’s are deeper – more Scottish you might say – it is perhaps more revealing to consider what the courses have in common, which is much. Not least an acknowledgement that all golfers should be able to get the ball in play more often than not, and instead be challenged more on and around the greens, a part of the game which owes nothing to strength and everything to feel.

Either way, it is imperative to play both courses when you visit and make your own mind up as to which you prefer.

Best of all, there are neither buggies nor real estate at Streamsong. You may like to think of most American golfers being unable to complete a medium-length par 4 without calling for a hot dog but here you will find a more discerning customer. Streamsong is a place where lovers of the game are drawn.

Golf is played all day long until dusk suddenly falls and you remember what true darkness feels like. It is at such moments, shortly after enjoying a sunset in the clubhouse that blends into the sandhills, when you realise what is refreshingly different about Streamsong – there is not an artificial light in view.

Flick through photos of both Streamsong courses here:

The lodge is a short drive away and in much the same way will confound your Floridian stereotypes. Made from wood, stone and glass, it feels like water is all around and wildlife is never far away.

It is equipped with four restaurants and a rooftop bar, Fragmentary Blue. The perfect spot, I quickly found, to watch the world go by.

Even more intriguing, it turned out, was the AcquaPietra Spa at the other extreme of the building. This subterranean grotto is full of warm pools and ante-chambers and specialises in introducing even those as hairy and curiously shaped as me to the concepts of wellbeing and rejuvenation.

• Related: Sam Horsfield shoots 59 on the Black

So it was that I found myself quite unsure whether to chat away in my usual, genial style or maintain a dignified silence as a charming local lady applied hot towels, masks and lotions to my face.

Initially I felt the need to pursue the former method but once I realised she had dealt with pores more clogged and skin even more wind-burned than mine than I relaxed into favouring a thin smile, but only because I was concerned that I might swallow some restorative unguent if my mouth opened any further.

Radiant and more clean than I have ever felt in my adult life, I fairly bounced into dinner that evening to begin the process of re-toxification.

We ate at SottoTerra, where the food has a Mediterranean theme and is really rather fine.

By now it was apparent that Streamsong specialises in the finer things in life. A couple of nights here really should be inked in immediately to any future Floridian itinerary.

Book your Streamsong stay

Whenever I come on holiday to the States I tend to wonder why I would ever go anywhere else. As long as you have some dollars to spend, life is really rather splendid and easy. It’s never far to find a golf course or a restaurant, which is a pretty good start in my eyes. And once you’re away from the airport those famous American highways just open up in front of you and invite an adventure to begin.

With direct flights to Orlando and Miami and a flight time around the nine-hour mark, even a short winter break is a realistic proposition and the sunshine comes as guaranteed.

Visit the Streamsong website for more information.

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