Dromoland Castle - A polished pearl

A polished pearl Chris Bertram on the revitalisation at Dromoland Castle which has added yet another sparkling gem to the Emerald Isle's precious collection Little more than six months ago, the golf course attached to Dromoland Castle was arguably the most disappointing in Ireland.

Yes, it was picturesque - set in the heart of one of the Emerald Isle's most breathtaking estates it would be hard not to be - but as a test of golf it was a letdown. A rough diamond, if you like.

Realising their course was not doing the estate justice, Dromoland acted - and in the best possible way. Once the management enlisted the help of Joe Carr and Ron Kirby, this corner of Ireland - already blessed with a bewildering list of magnificent courses - was about to receive another gift. Kirby, whose design nous has seen the likes of Robert Trent Jones, Gary Player and Jack Nicklaus elist his services, has had a hand in the beauties at Sun City, Mount Juliet and Old Head.

And assisting him in this project was Carr, a legend of Irish golf whose work at Dromoland Castle was one of his last legacies before passing away during the summer. Carr, British Amateur champion on three occasions and 13 times a Walker Cup player, will be sadly missed by all those in the amateur game. In Dromoland though, a piece of his genius lives on. The duo open their challenge with a fairly gentle par four.

Find the top level of the fairway up the left and a medium to short iron to a receptive green is all that's required. Four here is made all the more welcome when the second unfolds before your eyes. Stretching to 450 yards off the tips, the left side is again preferable in order to avoid the bunker at landing length but then a long iron is required to find a relatively shallow Redan-type green which is guarded by a large bunker which horseshoes round the left side. Par threes over 200 yards are not always described as welcome but after the challenges of the 2nd, it many ways it's just that.

The 4th is the first real opportunity to open your shoulders on what is a brilliant driving hole and a real - and rare - chance for a birdie. Perhaps the highlight of the course arrives at the 7th. From the back tees it stands at 175 yards and it is from this vantage point that you gain the best view of what is as beautiful a short hole as you'll find this side of Augusta.

The magnificent castle looms with menace in the background, the lake just in front and the rolling countryside beyond. The tee shot is played from an extremely elevated position, with the feeling you are hitting from the tree tops to what looks like a euro-sized green below. Throw in a pond to the left and a bunker to the right and you really have beauty and the beast all in one unforgettable hole.

The back nine starts with a classic risk and reward hole. Just 350 yards, it is framed all the way down the right by the lake and on the opposite side by the drive up to the castle. The tarmac isn't in itself a penal hazard but be too cautious and end up too far to the right and a longer iron than you really want in your hands is required to find a green fronted by the water and protected by trees.

Probably the finest par five awaits at the next, a fader's dream off the tee. A corridor of trees must then be negotiated to reach the green in two - but only the brave or foolhardy will try, given the water, rushes and dand which wait to swallow up anything other than perfection. The closing hole encapsulates all that is good about the new, improved Dromoland.

The drive, again favouring the fader, must clear the trees and laketo find the sliver of fairway which is all to easily run-through. The natural beauty of the estate is used to great effect both in aesthetic terms and also to provide a finishing test which challenges absolutely everyone. The lone pine which sits in the middle of the fairway just where you'd like your second to come to rest is the perfect example of this harmony. Dromoland lake, a bunker and a two-tired green provide the final examination of your game, all under the ancient eye of the imposing castle.

Dromoland's clubhouse is wonderfully friendly, perhaps a pleasant surprise given the quality of the course, the exclusive aura of the castle and indeed the estate in general. It also offers a tremendous eating option in the form of the Fig Tree restaurant and also houses the extensive spa and gym facilities. Add in the satellite navigation on the buggies, an impressive pro shop and staff of the very best kind and Dromoland should be considered a very worthy green fee option rather than just a course to be played by castle guests.

That said, the experience of staying in the former ancestral seat of the High King of Ireland is one to be grasped with both hands. Dromoland has now been transformed into a five-star hotel set in 400 acres of idyllic parkland. It remains steeped in traditional values and standards yet harnesses these alongside the most modern of conveniences.

The castle itself is situated in a natural amphitheatre created by a glacier ice sheet and gives overwhelming credence to the theory that natural sculpting is infinitely more attractive than that done by man. The trees which surround the castle - and indeed much of the estate - further enhance the feeling that you are in a different world, certainly one which is far removed from the stresses of modern life.

And yet, Dromoland Castle is situated just 15 minutes drive from one of Ireland's busiest airports and highly accessible by road. Shannon airport caters for flights from Manchester, Birmingham and London, as well as from America, whose residents flock in their thousands to this part of Ireland to lap up the history, savour the golf and look up long-lost relatives. The lucky ones among them will have the good fortune to stay at Dromoland and sample what is an incredible experience. The journey up the drive to the castle sets the scene for what lies in store.

The tarmac road winds its way between the nines of the course, past the rippling lake and up to the imposing residence. Sweeping round into the quadrangle - where Prime Minister Blair and President Bush addressed the world - and your luxurious stay begins. Climbing the steps into the castle engenders a certain feeling of intrepidation to those not used to residing in royal seats, but the staff at Dromoland soon allay all thoughts of those kind. An informal checking-in procedure sets the tone for the friendly nature with which staff go about their business at Dromoland Castle.

As guests are shown to your room, passing huge family portraits and suits of armour as they make your way along the stone pasageways, they are encouraged to make full use of your time on the estate through a thorough listing of the activities on offer. On arrival in your room, many will think about forsaking all those activities and settle for a relaxing break generally spent in the confines of their room, such is the beauty and the comfort of these rooms. However, guests should resist the temptation to hole up in their sumptuous quarters - designed by the renowned Carol Roberts - though, as so much pleasure awaits outside the castle walls.

The most leisurely pursuit on offer, and one which is a fabulous option after breakfast (more of which later) is a walk through the estate's magnificent gardens. They were formally laid out on the first occasion 250 years ago by Andre le Notre - who created the Palace gardens at Versailles and Greenwich Park - and they benefit today, just as they did back then, from the Gulf Stream which ensourages plants more usually associated with the Mediterranean.

For the more active, two splendid all-weather tennis courts are situated a stone's throw from the castle while cycling, archery, horseriding and clay and game shooting are also on offer. What is far more predictable is the quality of the food which Dromoland serves from dusk til dawn. Quite simply, it is out of this world. Huge breakfasts, incorporating anything from a traditional Irish fry up to delicious pancakes and syrup, give way to substantial lunches, sensational afternoon teas and the most refined dinners imaginable.

Space constraints permit further explanation here, but suffice as to say the food on offer more than matches the incredible surroundings of the Earl of Thomond restaurant. For those who prefer a more relaxed meal, an excellent menu is available to be enjoyed in The Gallery, surely the most exquisite hallway in the world, or the aforementioned Fig Tree restaurant. After dining, the evening in fact gets better, with drinks taken in a variety of surroundings - all of which are guaranteed to enchant and charm.

It won't surprise anyone that this sensational quality both on and off the course comes at a cost. And let's be honest, not an inconsiderable one. But for what this once-in-a-lifetime experience, those figures represent money exceptionally well spent.