TRAVEL: Excellent Estonia
Steve Killick enjoyed a visit to the Estonian capital of Tallinn, where the game is beginning to flourish...
SITTING in Tallinn’s medieval square enjoying an evening beer in one of its many vibrant cafes it is almost impossible to believe that Estonia only broke free of the cold, dead hand of communism in 1991.
Despite a legacy of massive levels of pollution, including nuclear waste, Russia’s Baltic neighbour has taken giant strides forward in the last two decades and is now attracting western tourists keen on seeing some beautiful countryside, historic castles and architecture, as well as those seeking the more Bacchanalian and earthy pleasures Tallinn has to offer after dark.
And for the seasoned golf traveller there are two courses within 40 minutes of the city centre well worthy of attention.
The most regular golfing visitors to Estonia are men from neighbouring Finland, who bring their clubs, their thirst, and a keen appetite to become far better acquainted with many of the stunningly beautiful Estonian women who live in Tallinn.
And it is towards Finland and the gulf that our first golfing journey takes us to the Estonian Golf & Country Club (pictured above and right).
Some 16 miles east of the capital, designed by the young Finnish architect, Lassi Pekka Tillander, the Sea course sweeps down to the salty reed beds of the Gulf of Finland, past rocky outcrops and climbs up through brooding woodlands.
At 7,000 yards long to a par of 72 it is a serious enough challenge to merit its election to PGA European Tour Course status in 2005. And there are no signs of pollution here – just cool, clear air and a rich scent of pine trees.
It gets very, very cold in Estonia with winter temperatures averaging -8˚C so the golf season is short - from April through to October at best - which does not leave a great deal of time for course preparation.
But on a more positive note, there are some really splendid holes to enjoy and test the best, especially from the back tees.
The 3rd hole, 377 yards from the tips, is a beauty through a corridor of mature trees with wetlands running down to the Gulf of Finland perilously close to the back of the green. My Bridgestone 1 ball still lies there.
The 13th can indeed be very unlucky with woods all down the left and a huge lake occupying the right-hand side of the dogleg right fairway. At 416 yards a par here comes very well earned.
The other hole that stands out large in the memory is the 580-yard 15th, which hugs the coastline down the right with another lake to the left and, into the breeze, took me three full wood shots to get onto the apron.
But watching the ball fly through the crisp, clear air was a real treat. As was the final climb up the stairs to the splendidly equipped clubhouse. Sitting quietly on the balcony, supping a generous glass of beer gazing across unspoilt countryside to a solitary church tower in the distance was just a perfect end to a splendid day.
If one can tear oneself away from the five-star luxurious comfort of the Hotel Telegraaf for more golf then the Niitvalja Golf Club some 25 miles south west of the city should be your next stop.
The first golf course in the Baltic region opened nine holes in 1993 and an additional nine a year later. It underwent a major refurbishment in 2007 and now comprises a decent, well-designed 7,000-yard course that snakes its way through pine woods with large amounts of water to negotiate.
If your driving is off then you best tear up your card because there seems no way out of the woods once in there.
While the outward nine is somewhat uniform the inward loop comes alive with some super holes that are a real test of shot-making. The most memorable and fiendish of all was 15, a 528-yard par 5 with its green placed in the middle of a lake that runs down the entire left-hand side of the fairway.
Our fourball marched disconsolately off without ever reaching the putting surface.
Yet back in the friendly and welcoming clubhouse and a few glasses of the toothsome A le Coq beer, good humour was swiftly restored.
In fact, the warmth and friendliness of the Estonians and their fantastic English means that smiles are seldom off the face here.
FACTFILE
Steve Killick flew Estonian Air (www.estonian-air.ee) from London Gatwick to Tallinn where he was a guest at the Estonian Golf & Country Club (www.egcc.ee) and the Hotel Telegraaf (www.telegraafhotel.com). For further information about Niitvälja golf club go to www.egk-golf.ee.
Green fees vary on day and season but one should allow €45 at Estonian GC and €39 at Niitvälja per round.